Bob wrote:

This morning I awoke to watch the moonrise. The first night I was here, at another tent site, the brightness on the far rocky face awoke me. I knew it couldn't be sunrise because the sky was still dark. I looked over and behind me and saw a full moon. The vertical face of rock gives way to a sloping Tonto Plateau. The moonlight first shown on the vertical face and worked it's way down the slope. This morning the full moon was gone and it was not as light. I had hoped to use the moonlight on my hike out day, but it won't be any help. The moon is waning and not as bright. When I leave, I will dress my toe and use a flashlight to get off the plateau.

After I went back to sleep, I heard a voice. It awoke and startled me, since I haven't heard a human voice for a few days. Apparently someone came in yesterday and stayed at the far end of the campground. He was walking away when I called to him. He may have been checking to see if I was leaving this morning, since he was leaving this morning.

I am encourage about my toe. It is not as sensitive this morning. I dressed it with an antiseptic  swab and some antibiotic jell and wrapped it with a band aid. The band aids in my first aid kit are worthless. I will pack my own kit next time. I can't believe I left without Neosporin. I am still keeping off my feet to keep the healing going. Tonight I will dress it using adhesive tape and gauze for the hike back.

I took the water bag to the spring for some water. The trip is arduous and difficult because of the steep path made of boulders. I am trying to be very careful not to fall or re-injure my toe. I carry the water up one step, put it down, and step up. It's a slow process, but with my sore toe, I must be careful.

I use the bag so that I only have to make one trip per day. The other day, after I brought the bag up and set on the ground by my tent, it tipped over. I had to make another trip, but this time I made a round stone enclosure around the bag so that it would not tip over again. I cover the water bag with a travel towel to keep the critters out.

When I leave tomorrow, I hope to have enough light to reach the Cathedral Steps by sunup. This is one of the most vertical parts of the hike. I need to reach the top of the stairs before the heat arrives. From there, the path is a gradual assent with about six to eight rock falls. My goal is to reach Santa Maria Springs for more water. If I can't go on, I will camp there for the night. I really want to reach to summit tomorrow, but it is a 1,700 foot vertical ascent.

I am wondering if anyone will hike in today. Yesterday there were a LOT of aircraft. Sunday must be the busiest day. I am so ready to start my hike back! I really miss Sue. I was not able to get to the river or camp on the Tonto Plateau, but I did the best I could do. It's very hard to just sit, but I must get my toe in the best shape possible. The mornings have been beautiful. They are cool with a nice breeze. With the overhang I am camped under, only the late sun penetrates my site. There's not much to do except sit and watch everything. My only clock is watching the shadow come down the opposite mountain face and down the plateau, across the creek, (which is not visible from my campsite) and up the rise to my tent. I have taken my sleeping mat out of the tent and put it next to the tent under the overhang. Three black ravens just flew up to the opposite cliff. They were very noisy, "CAW, CAW, CAW". I keep looking for the condors to return. They came by yesterday for a while. They are incredible to watch. They soar on updrafts and swoop down on the plateau on the opposite side for prey. There is plenty at my campsite. There is a lizard that lives in the outcrop above and I see him (her) often. He (she) has agreed to share the area with me. The three ravens just flew down the creek to the river. There really is a lot to see. I am adjusting to being alone.

When my bottom begins to hurt, I move to another, softer rock. I decided to move to my chaise lounge next to my tent. It might nap time. While lying on my mat, I sneezed very loudly. When I looked up, there was a lone hiker on the plateau opposite the creek. He heard me and I waved. He waved back. He was on the Tonto Plateau. Little did I know then how important that sneeze would be. David Chagala, the lone hiker, would prove to be a good friend and a major help in my successful return to the south rim.

David was hiking from the Boucher Trail, accessed from the Hermit Trail. It is an extremely difficult trail that only experienced canyon hikers can make. He was stopping here at Hermit Camp until the sun was down and continuing to Monument Camp on the plateau. He stopped by my site when he arrived at the campground. David and I had a long talk. He has over thirty years experience hiking in the Grand Canyon and around the world. His hikes include America, England, France and the Himalayas. The has a doctorate in Eastern Medicine and specializes in acupuncture. He gave me some "second skin" and Neosporin for my toe. He related a time that he spent several days at this site when he was sick and sat out the illness. I invited him to share this site, but he was going to another site at the other end of the campground that had afternoon shade. He invited me to join him in the afternoon.

When I joined David in the afternoon, he suggested that I hike out with him this evening. He would accompany me as far as the junction of the Tonto and Hermit Trails. From there, he was continuing to Monument Creek camp and I would start the ascent to the Cathedral Stairs. If I did that and camped overnight, I would have shade most of the way to Santa Maria Springs. I agreed and we started out at sunset. David told me the biggest mistake hikers in the canyon make was to hike in the sun. He always starts early, sits out the heat and hikes until dark. I made it as far as the beginning of the stairs. I did not want to hike upward in the dark. David mentioned a good place to stop there and I located the area. It was a small, flat area just off the trail. I arrived at late evening and set up camp. Davis suggested I place my tent flat on the ground, put my sleeping mat on half of the tent, and use the rest as a blanket. Having done that, I went to sleep looking up at the Big Dipper. A sight I will never forget!